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He looks shocked.
Mehby
Safety is no 1 priority!
We know this comment by Shannon Martin is correct and sensible because it was reviewed by Shannon Martin! As a licensed insurance agent, I’m sure she is qualified to talk about uh… electronics… hmm
This is the sort of person who thinks you need to ground yourself to be safe while working with electricity. Not 100% wrong, but just wrong enough to be very, very dangerous.
Some people know just enough to be dangerous.
For instance, an anecdote:
A nearby local hardware store put up a sign in 2017 and now this year, in front of the welding equipment, that says “WELDING GOGGLES DO NOT PROTECT EYES AGAINST THE SUN”
Now if they didn’t block uv from the sun, then they wouldn’t block uv from your welding arc.
BUT I 100% stand by their choice to put the sign up.
Because you need a certain shade or darker, and they sell a lot of different shades for different welding applications, including the safety tints people might want if they’re nearby and catch the occasional reflection.
And some people know enough to know welding arc = UV, sun = uv, and don’t stop to think about intensity.
In fact, in 2017, I knew someone who tried to use a #3 lense to look at the total eclipse, and as soon as the moon cleared moved enough for the sun to peek back, he deeply regretted not using a darker shade. Now has a weird spot in his vision that isn’t quite right.
A 3 is what my helmet gives me for grinding mode, that’s nothing.
I used a 10 or 11 for one eclipse and it worked alright.
Just ground your left hand while you work on it with your right hand. That way if it’s live it’ll quickly stop your heart and you won’t even know you died. No half measures!
Working with small ESD-sensitive electronics and using a proper grounding strap and mat with large resistors in series to provide protection from shock? Absolutely.
Wiring up a car battery or working with mains power? Absolutely not.
Car battery on its own won’t kill you, though wiring many in series might. There can also be some effects from DC sparks and welding on even 12V, which might cause other problems.
worst ai prompt
Looking passed the absolutely insane answer here, no one has even brought up the whole issue of AC vs DC. Batteries are DC, while your fridge that plugs into your wall running on AC. I know they make DC ones, but it isn’t like they are interchangeable.
Funny thing, most modern refrigerators use DC motors for their compressors so that they can run at variable speeds, so there’s likely an inverter that you could bypass if you know the appropriate voltage. The DC ones for RVs are the same internals, just without the inverter.
Correction: they still use AC motors, but those motors don’t use line AC. It goes line AC > rectifier > DC > inverter board > variable frequency AC to run the compressor motor.
Most RV fridges just use DC motors, but there are some that use VFDs and AC motors.
Have we moved to BLDCs yet?
Funny thing, most modern refrigerators use DC motors for their compressors so that they can run at variable speeds
No they don’t…they use AC motors and a VFD to control the speed.
I mean it’s probably labeled, right? How hard could it be?
Exactly. Find a hole that’s black and a hole that’s red, and stick some wires in there. How hard could it be?
(can’t answer, because she was fucking electrocuted)
Shannon Martin says just shake the battery and you’ll get AC.
Just swap the leads back and forth very fast
Just run the rectifier in reverse, duh
There are DC-AC converters you can use (might be called inverters in English idk), which are pretty interesting circuits. They are used all the time, e.g. to use solar energy
That part just takes an inverter.
I’m not sure of the max load output on a car battery, but with a 15 amp 1800 watt dc to ac inverter, you probably can run a fridge off one. It probably just won’t last all that long.
Hello, expert solarpunk here.
TLDR: Car battery is 350Wh. Fridge uses 143W idle, so it’ll run a fridge for 2-3 hours.
Explanation below:
Car batteries are lead-acid (sulphuric acid and lead plates).
They discharge according to Peukert’s Law as the negatively charged plate gets covered in lead via the acid (electrolyte).
As the battery depletes, the negative plate can begin to take permanent damage, and so you can’t discharge a lead-acid deeper than 10-20%, or about 10.8V, with the safe limit being ~50% discharge.
Most 12V, 60Ah batteries therefore only safely store and nominally discharge 350 Wh @ 350W.
You can discharge that as fast as you want but the faster you discharge, the lower the capacity is (with 1000-1500W bringing you way down to like 65 Wh). Fridges have a surge when they start up to fire up the compressor. Starter batteries can take that, but once the refrigerant is cold, the fridge just maintains the temperature which uses a lot less energy - about 143W on average.
Fridge uses 143W idle
Isn’t that like 1250 kWh on an annual basis of idle usage? An efficient fridge should use 150-200 kWh per year, this isn’t just idle usage. Even an inefficient fridge would be really high with that kind of idle usage.
I don’t know… you didn’t mention your uncle once…
That’s because he is his uncle. You’re seeing the source material, be amazed
Does… Does he work at PlayStation?
It’s a secret. You’ll have to ask his uncle
Wow, those are some serious Licensed Insurance Agent skills
Fridge uses 143W idle
The only thing running in idle is the timer and power led, which consume insignificant amounts of power. By my calculations, the average modern fridge does bursts of ~300W during compression and defrosting cycles, with ~40-50W consumption on average over long periods.
You have a very inefficient fridge! My fridge is rated for 272 kWh per annum, which is 745 Wh per day or 24 Wh per hour. You need to buy a new fridge.
You did not answer their question. They asked for Watts, not Watt hours. Average car batteries have a CCA in the range of 500 to 1000 Amps at 12V, so you could reasonably have 12kW in there :D
This reads just like an AI response
AI told me 75C/170F is ideal for hot tub water temperature.
Sure no problem. Once I get used to that I’ll work my way up to boiling peanut oil.
If nothing else, the tub would certainly be hot at that temperature.
At what temperature does it cease to be a bath and instead become human soup?
It is at this point that the reader questions their own existence.
In the tub. For a relatively short time.
Reading
75°C is definitely ok for a hot tube for a short session.
Temperatures beyond 50°C are an acute risk. 75°C can cause lasting damages.
Yeah but you are talking about hot tubs and they are talking about hot tubes so maybe the rules are different like the tube is really hot but is a poor thermal conductor. Or they misspelled tub and they really like burning themselves… lots of options for interpretation here.
“Hot tube” seems like a slang for some kind of drug device. Like a weird bong or something
It could also be a gross sex term for a dick. During sexy time someone could say to me “yeah give me that hot tube” and I would be immediately less interested in sex.
Sounds like something that you would find in a bargain-bin romance novel.
“His hot tube pulsated, throbbing with motion” or something like that.
Ever been to sauna? Especially the Russian one? There’s no risk if you don’t have heart issues.
I’m regularly going to a Finnish sauna with >80°C, but air with 100% humidity is not the same as immersing yourself in scalding hot water.
The Finnish sauna is dry. Russian and Turkish are wet with high humidity.
In mother Russia, Sauna evaporates you
Forget 75°, just 65°C (150°F) will give you third degree burns in 2 seconds:
Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns.
(°F)
Most adults? What happens to the others?
They will instantly explode into pure energy
To be honest three degrees burn doesn’t sound bad. I’m looking at my protractor and as long as you aren’t far away from the tub three degrees shouldn’t burn that much
(Third °F burns)
I guess I’m long dead, lol.
Just brain dead 😅
Sure but you can only do it once!
Seriously, even 75C water coming out of the tap would be dangerous and negligent.
It’s usually 96 if you have a boiler. No issues.
So who is your skin graft guy?
But only if you have purple eyes
I spilled a half cup of 175F water on my hand and got blisters. You absolutely cannot bathe in it.
I meant to reply to the parent comment
Regardless of source, if your refrigerator is running you better go catch it.
Its stealing your food.
I was hoping for this old chestnut somewhere here
You keep chestnuts in your fridge?
Hey, ChatGPT, my uncle says new Macbooks are just glorified Raspberry Pis.
How many MB/s are in a Raspberry Pi?
It will take some mathversion to convert from the CPUs/s a Mac uses and the MotherBoards/s in a raspberry pi. I’m working on getting some insurance for ChaGPT to find out.
About tree fiddy
Raspberry PIs don’t run on MB/s, they use GHz.
You just need to use a conversion. 1 MB/s = 9.66 GHz
Uh, watt?
Volt
Jiggawatt
Whaddid u call me
uwattm8
OHMybad
Jigga deez nuts!
Thank you for clarifying.
Now I don’t know enough about electronics to know how wrong this is, but I do know enough about electronics to know that this absolutely sounds wrong.
The problem comes when someone takes an answer like this, knowing far less than I do, and they try and hook up their fridge to a car battery.
And this is why I hate LLMs. Being confidently wrong is scary enough when it’s just people, nevermind technology.
It does make me chuckle, though, that Skynet could have been totally innocent in their destruction of the human race, they just confidently came to the wrong conclusion and had the tools to carry it out.
Like a toddler whose inner thoughts are telling him to throw a cat out of the window. He doesn’t know he’s going to kill it, he just knows that’s what his brain is telling him to do.
Now I don’t know enough about electronics to know how wrong this is
Very, assuming the refrigerator in question typically runs on a typical power grid you’d find in the US or Europe (source: am electrical engineer)
Mainly because most compressors I’m aware of use alternating current (AC) motors, or at a minimum accept AC power. Batteries alone produce direct current (DC). The simplest way to make this work would involve an inverter (converts DC to AC). Cheap ones probably have at least a 10% conversion loss, so you’re looking at an hour or two at most.
Edit: should also mention that discharging a typical lead-acid battery until it’s all the way flat (realistically below ~11V) does irreparable damage. Might be cheaper to replace the contents of your fridge :)
From a technical stance, it’s right. This top comment does the math pretty well, and I’ve done it myself recently trying to decide if I should add a battery backup on my fridge. If you can overcome the startup surge (and a car battery definitely can), a modern fridge doesn’t draw very much power.
Of course, there’s a lot of details missing about how you do this without dying of electrocution. So I think it’s also a fair criticism of the LLM.
While reading the question I thought: “That’s not how Watts work”, but then this “answer” hit…
Jesus… the stupid, it hurts.
Before anyone says it’s so stupid it might work, makita beat you to the chase. It has a real heat pump (reversible refrigerator). I really want one though.
Licensed Insurance Agent
seems legit
anyone can work in insurance
Its my favorite on Quora too.
Thanks Steve, the “Professional Hustler Entrepreneur” for getting the highest rated answers on the pros and cons of various medical drugs.
Chat GTP answer
Sure, let’s say you have a typical car battery with a capacity of 60 amp-hours (Ah).
And let’s assume you have a small refrigerator that consumes about 100 watts of power when running.
To calculate how long the battery can power the refrigerator, we need to convert the power consumption from watts to amps.
Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) × Current (amps)
Assuming a car battery voltage of 12 volts:
100 watts / 12 volts = 8.33 amps
Now, we can determine the approximate runtime:
60 amp-hours / 8.33 amps ≈ 7.2 hours
So, with a fully charged 60 Ah car battery, you could run the refrigerator for approximately 7.2 hours before the battery is completely drained. However, it’s important to note that factors such as battery age, temperature, and other loads on the battery can affect actual performance.
I’d have expected ChatGPT to be able to call out power factor as well. Otherwise you’re getting volt-amps, not true wattage
Power factor isn’t a thing in DC and GPT appears to have assumed a DC powered fridge.
And losses in the inverter.
Given the lack of an inverter in GPT’s transcript there’s no AC to invert.
Please tell this to my dead car battery. It was killed by the tiny dome light last night, because I forgot to turn it off.
If your dome light isn’t an LED, then you should replace it with one. It won’t completely fix your problem but it will give you 9 to 10 times longer to catch it.
There’s really no reason that every car doesn’t have a voltage cut off to protect the battery such that it can still start. Additionally, if they just included a super capacitor then even with a heavily discharged battery, it could charge up the super capacitor to then start the car.
But if we went around doing smart stuff like that then we could potentially wreck the entire lead acid battery industry and that would just be awful…
3.5 or GPT-4? I can run the latter if need be.
if the car was running, the alternator would be charging the battery. would it be able to keep up with the drain of the fridge of just extend the time a bit?
Probably depends on the car + alternator, but it’s not so rare for modern gas cars to have AC outlets for backseat passengers, and the ones I’ve seen are typically rated 120-150W or so. Glancing at the power meter I have on my fridge, it uses ~110W while running and only runs ~10% of the time.
Theoretically the car probably can keep up while running, BUT
Compressor startup current may blow whatever fuse is protecting that circuit.
AND
Cars are very inefficient generators. You’d be wasting a bunch of fuel so I wouldn’t generally recommend it unless it’s an emergency.
That said, in an emergency it may be worth doing for like 20 min on / 1 hr off, so that you’re running the engine only when needed, but I’m not an expert, that’s just pure speculation.
That answer is like the electronics version of the image with Patrick Stewart and the caption:
“Use the force, Harry
-Gandalf”
Licensed Insurance Agent
Yup about the answer I expect.
